Chocolate for drinking has a history far longer than chocolate for eating, despite the latter having become the norm. In premodern times, ancient Mesoamerican cultures imbibed the bitter cacao bean medicinally and in rituals.
After colonizing Central and South America, the Spaniards introduced cacao to Europe in the early 1500s. To make it more palatable, sweeteners were added. It was then diluted with dairy, eventually taking the shape of the ubiquitous chocolate bars we know today.
Cacao also made its way to the former Spanish colony of the Philippines, where its rainforests were ideal for cultivation because they fall within the Cacao Belt, a zone 20 degrees of longitude north and south of the equator.
Philippine cacao beans are traditionally made into tablets of pressed pure, roasted, ground cacao called tablea. Containing no additives or sweeteners, this pure cocoa mass retains the natural cocoa butter and a deep, earthy flavor. Tablea is used to make a form of hot chocolate known as tsokolate, as well as dishes such as champarado chocolate rice porridge.
Tsokolate is typically cooked in a tall jug called a tsokolatera and mixed with a wooden muddler called a batirol. It can also simply be made in a small saucepan and stirred with a wooden spoon.
It is not unheard of to incorporate less common additives such as cayenne pepper or peanut butter. For this recipe, I add both soy sauce and milk for umami enrichment.
If you cannot source genuine tablea, don’t fret. The recipe can still be made with 100% cacao mass of any origin. Instead of using soy milk, it can also be made with regular milk or your favorite non-dairy alternative. It’s a perfect drink to be enjoyed over your winter break. An optional splash of brandy or whisky works well, too.
Pair your hot chocolate with marshmallows or the brioche-like Japanese melonpan (melon bread).
Serves 2
Prep time: 10 minutes
Ingredients:
- 350 milliliters soy milk
- 50 to 60 grams cocoa mass (4 tablea)
- 10 milliliters soy sauce
- 20 grams kibitō cane sugar
- Ichimi tōgarashi chili powder as an optional garnish
Directions:
- Add the soy milk and tablea in a pot and place it over medium heat.
- Stir constantly while heating and let the tablea dissolve.
- Add the soy sauce. Alternatively, the soy sauce can be scalded in the pot in Step 1 to bring out dark caramel notes.
- Check the hot chocolate for consistency. Thin down the mixture with extra soy milk if necessary.
- Remove the pot from the heat and add half of the cane sugar. Taste test and add more if needed.
- Split the hot chocolate between two mugs and, if using, sprinkle a little chili powder to finish.
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